Coba (not Cabo)

While the Tulum site feels much like a golf course, the ruins at Coba feel like the set of an Indiana Jones movie. Set in the jungle about 45km west of Tulum, this was easily the most enjoyable set of ruins of the three. Very few people actually stay in the town of Coba (pop. 300), so they don't arrive at the site until later. 

There are signs all around Lago Coba warning about crocodiles, but I never saw one.

From about 8-9:30 a.m. I and a few other hearty souls had the run of the place, including access to the 42-meter-high pyramid, the highest (or second highest, depending on where you read) Mayan structure on the Yucatan.

Nohoch Mul, the grand pyramid, stands 42 meters tall

The other advantage at Coba is that you can climb on some of the ruins, including the pyramid. The view looks out over the jungle and is quite breathtaking and, once you're outside the ruins, you can climb the tower for the zipline and see the pyramid poking through the trees.

The ruins at Coba are older than other nearby sites, dating back to the 9th century AD.

 The area is divided into three sections, each about a kilometer apart. One, right by the entrance, features the main sports arena and a smaller pyramid. A second is spread out over a few acres culminating in the giant pyramid. The third doesn't have the grandeur of the other two but is impressive nonetheless and, being a kilometer down the path, less crowded than the other two.

The best part of the site is how the ruins have been left in the middle of the jungle. 

There are bicycles and guides for hire, and the people cycling (or being cycled) does detract from the mystique, but unlike Chichen Itza the vendors are all kept outside in the parking lot, which leads to a much more pristine atmosphere. The constant shade keeps the temperature within cool, which may not be the case in summer but certainly was pleasant in January. There are also a few smaller paths to wander around, where you can run into lagoons or just take shortcuts to avoid tourists. Probably some allow deeper exploration of the jungle as well.

The thriving metropolis of Coba (pop. 300)

Valladolid

I only ended up with a few hours here during a bus change, but it turned out to be time well spent and is a good reminder of the luck of a long layover, one I wish now had been longer.

Templo de San Bernardino, with the Convento de Sisal off to the left.

As it turns out, Valladolid is where I should have stayed when going to Chichen Itza rather than Piste, the city about a kilometer from the site. About 45 minutes east, this is the cleanest city I've ever seen in Mexico. The streets, like most colonial towns, are narrow and the colors very vivid along the walls. The city has around 50,000 people, but feels much smaller.

The town has a pair of large churches, parks and more trees than most places in the Yucatan -- they make an effort to grow them in the center squares of each city block. The atmosphere is very calm and quiet. All the streets in the downtown area are one way, which is nice. The town also has a large cenote (underground cavern with water).

Catedral de San Gervasio

This is also the best jumping off point for another set of ruins I didn't get a chance to see, Ek Balam, which Lonely Planet says rivals Chichen Itza. I was hoping to get back there, but doesn't look like I'll have a chance.